Full Flake Floor Coatings

Flake is thrown into the wet base coat until it won't hold any more, so the whole floor is covered and no base color shows. The loose flake is scraped off and a clear topcoat seals it in.

For a garage, usually. Full flake hides dust, salt and tire marks best and has the most texture. Partial flake shows more of the base color for a cleaner look, which suits basements and showrooms.

Nationally, professional coatings run about $4 to $12 per square foot installed (HomeGuide). Your price comes from photos of the floor and its size, by text within 24 hours. Size, crack and pit repair, any old coating to grind off and the flake size you pick all move the number. See the coating cost guide.

Flake comes in several chip sizes. Bigger flakes make a bolder, busier pattern; smaller ones look finer and more like stone. Size changes the look, not how long the floor lasts, so pick the one you like on the real samples we bring.

A light or mid-tone blend. Road salt dries to a white film, and lighter blends hide it along with dust and make the garage brighter. Dark blends hide tire marks and oil drips but let that salt film show. A blend that mixes light, mid and dark chips covers the most.

Yes. With flake covering the whole floor and no base color showing, old stains, patched spots and color differences disappear. Oil that has soaked deep into the slab still has to be dealt with in prep, though, because it can keep the coating from bonding.

No. The texture is sealed under the clear topcoat, so dirt sits on top instead of working into it. Sweep or dust mop, squeegee out slush, and wash with a pH-neutral cleaner and a microfiber mop or soft deck brush. Skip abrasive pads, bleach, vinegar and citrus cleaners.

Yes, within limits. The flake gives the floor its texture, and the topcoat can be adjusted: smoother for a basement you walk in socks, or with grit added where snowmelt comes in off the cars. Tell us how the floor gets used and we'll set it for that.

Not the way an epoxy floor does. The clear topcoat is a UV-stable polyaspartic, so it won't yellow or amber in the sun, and that yellowing is what makes older epoxy floors look faded and dingy by the door. The flake sits under that topcoat, protected from wear.

Yes. A chip from a dropped tool is cleaned out, filled, re-flaked and topcoated, and the busy full flake pattern hides the edges of a repair well. Text us a photo and we'll take a look.

Usually, yes. If the topcoat dulls in the tire paths after years of use, a well-bonded floor can be cleaned, sanded and given a fresh clear topcoat without grinding off the flake. A floor that's peeling is different: it has to be ground off and redone.

Usually, for a one- or two-car garage. Grinding, repairs, the base coat, the flake broadcast, scraping and the clear topcoat all happen the same day, because polyaspartic can be recoated within hours. Bigger floors or heavy repairs can take longer, and parking waits about 24 to 48 hours.

Thicker than a partial flake floor or a roll-on kit. Each polyaspartic coat goes on at about 6 to 12 mils dry, and a full flake system stacks a base coat, a solid layer of flake and a clear topcoat. That thickness, plus a bond into ground concrete, is what keeps hot tires from lifting it.

No. It's our standard for garages, and it suits shops, pole barns, entries and basements too, anywhere you want a floor that hides dust and wear and has some texture underfoot. With grit in the topcoat, it also works on porches and patios.

The written warranty on your quote spells out what's covered, in plain language, before you approve anything. If something isn't right later, text us a photo. If it's covered, we fix it; if it isn't, we'll explain why and what the options are. More on our warranty.